Autumn in Istria – truffle hunting

Autumn in Istria – truffle hunting

Have you ever been truffle hunting? In fact, did you even know that truffles are “hunted”? Even if you haven’t, we assume that you have at least heard of this delicacy, which, although it may not look the most attractive, is truly a delicacy. We recently had the opportunity not only to taste truffles, but also to participate in the hunt and spend a beautiful autumn day in the village of Paladini, in the heart of Istria. The Karlić family, who hosted us, go truffle hunting every day in a forest not far from the village.

A young yet experienced guide led us on a truffle hunt with their two trained dogs, a Labrador called Stella and a Romagnolo called Lila. With the great help of the dogs, we managed to find a couple of red truffles and one black one. Dogs are more likely to perform a task if they are rewarded for doing so. So, as a reward for successfully hunting, they were given a treat, which is also an important part of their training.

While it’s all still fresh in our minds, here are a few interesting facts about truffles.

Dogs

In the past, pigs were used to hunt truffles because of their exceptional sense of smell. Nowadays, however, truffle hunting is done with dogs, specifically females, as they are more reliable than males. The choice of breed is not simple, either. Mixed breeds are usually chosen over purebreds because they are more obedient and have a more refined sense of smell. The best hunting breed is the Lagotto Romagnolo, or Italian water dog. Training begins when the dogs are about 3 months old and is carried out by their future handler. Although training is serious, it is carried out in such a way that it seems like a playful game to the dogs. We saw this for ourselves when we watched them joyfully jumping and rolling in the leaves. 😊 When a dog smells a truffle and starts digging, the handler joins in to continue digging; otherwise, there is a risk that the dog will eat the truffle.

One of the dogs that the Karlić family takes hunting is Truffy, the first Dalmatian dog to become an expert in truffle hunting.

After Stella smelled the truffle, Lila came over and waited for her treat (although she shouldn’t have gotten it in this case 😄)

Truffles

The Istrian forests are home to 3 types of truffles: black, white, and red. Although red truffles are quite common, they are not edible. Black truffles have a dark exterior that hides a nutty flavor, and they can be found throughout the year. The white truffle is the rarest and most expensive type. It can only be “hunted” from the end of September to the end of December. It has an extremely strong scent and is much more fragile than the black truffle, so great care must be taken when digging it up. If the truffle has a strong yet pleasant scent, it is a sign of freshness and quality. If it has no smell or smells like ammonia, it is not fresh.

Digging up truffles can sometimes take several hours, since it has to be done carefully to avoid damaging the truffle. We were told that it once took 4.5 hours to dig up a white truffle!

The forest path was challenging for some, but it was all worth it when we found a black truffle

Weather conditions

Truffles grow in moist, gray soil in symbiosis with the roots of oak, hornbeam, poplar, and hazelnut trees. They are found in the Motovun Forest, which stretches along the Mirna River. We visited the Paladini forest, located near Lake Butoniga, which adds an extra level of humidity to the soil. The wetter the soil, the easier it is to find truffles because they emit a scent that trained dogs can easily recognize. The drier the soil, the harder they are to find, and the higher their price.

During dry periods, when they are harder to find, white truffles can reach a price of between €6,000 and €7,000 per kg.

After the truffle hunt, there was a reward for us too – degustation of savory and sweet dishes with truffles

The truffle hunt and tasting can spice up your vacation in Istria. And we mean this literally. The area around the medieval town of Motovun is not only known for its abundance of truffles, but also for its numerous cosy accommodation options. If you want to relax in a comfortable villa with a pool (and try your luck at a truffle hunt in the morning), you might want to check out this list of villas nearby. These villas can typically host groups of four to ten or even twelve people, making them a perfect choice for two or three families or a group of friends looking to spend their holiday together in a peaceful environment in the heart of Istria.

Now that you know what to expect, we invite you to head to Istria and treat yourself to this unique experience. You will be greeted by kind hosts, beautiful nature, playful dogs, and top-notch food. Even if you don’t consider yourself a truffle fan now, we assure you that you will become one.

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