Cycling the Parenzana: our favourite way to see three countries by bike

Cycling the Parenzana: our favourite way to see three countries by bike

Ask anyone in our team for a top activity in Istria and the Parenzana comes up within the first minute.

There are plenty of bike trails in Istria, but only one that lets you say you cycled through three countries along a route once travelled by steam trains. The Parenzana links Trieste in Italy with Poreč on the Croatian coast, and travels through Slovenian coast in between.

We covered a detailed overview of the route and practical tips in our first article about the Parenzana, and here we bring you a few details about its history, the trail and the culture along the way, happy cycling!

A railway that refused to disappear

Long before it carried cyclists, the Parenzana carried people, olives, wine, coal, salt, and mail from Trieste and Poreč. It was active from 1902 until 1935. When it closed, several of the small stations it passed through were simply left to the weather. Some of those stations, old bridges and tunnels are still standing today, quietly telling the story of past lives.

The name itself is a nice piece of trivia: Parenzana comes from Parenzo, the old Italian name for Poreč, the coastal town where the original railway line used to end.

A bridge that used to be a part of Parenzana railway ; Trieste, Italy

Crossing three borders on a bike

What makes the Parenzana different from any other trail in the region is how much you get to see without making the trail super challenging. The length of the trail is 123 km. You start on Italian coastal cliffs, drive into Slovenia’s green countryside, and finish among the red soil and olive groves of Istria. You’ll notice the architecture change as well from Venetian style to Austro-Hungarian and Slavic influences.

It is also an ideal trail for slow travellers who want to take in the views, the local food and culture. An experienced biker probably could do the trail in one day but most visitors like to make it a three or four day trip.

Stops along the way

  • Grožnjan (Grisignana): the trail’s highest point, and a hilltop town of artists’ studios, galleries and a popular summer jazz festival
  • Motovun (Montona): one of Istria’s most photographed towns, and the centre of Istrian truffle country
  • The Sečovlje salt flats: sea salt still harvested by hand, the way it has been done here since Roman times
  • Buje (Buie): a proper wine town, famous for Malvasia and Teran wines
  • Poreč (Parenzo): the trail’s finish line, home to the UNESCO listed Euphrasian Basilica and its Byzantine mosaics
  • Local producers, wine tastings, cheese tastings. Definitely leave some space in your luggage for delicious souvenirs. Before you do so, check out our guide on how to shop like a local in Croatia.

Parenzana ; Piran, Slovenia

Don’t skip Novigrad

The Parenzana itself does not pass directly through Novigrad, but the detour from Buje is short and, in our opinion, one of the best diversions on the whole route. It is a town we know particularly well, since it is where our own story began back in 2015. We have a full locals guide to Novigrad if you want recommendations straight from colleagues who live there.

Accommodation

Most of our guests split the trail into three or four nights, basing themselves in or near Buje, Grožnjan, Motovun or Poreč.A villa with a private pool makes a genuinely welcome sight at the end of a riding day. Booking ahead is recommended between May and September, when demand along the trail is at its highest. Here are two options worth looking at: Villa Garden Contesses and of course Villa Parenzana.

Villa Garden Contesses (Buje) ; Villa Parenzana (Vižinada)

Planning your ride

Which bike should I bring?

Cyclests agree that a mountain bike or trekking bike is considered the best choice. Roughly two thirds of the surface is gravel, and can be rough in places. A standard road bike is not recommended.

When should I go?

Spring, from April to June, and autumn, from September to October have pleasant conditions for biking. Summer can bring temperatures above 30°C on exposed inland sections, and winter rain can turn parts of the trail to mud, so most tour operators avoid scheduling rides between November and February.

How difficult is it?

Given the trail follows an old railway line, gradients are gentle almost everywhere except the short climbs up to the hilltop towns. Total elevation gain across the whole route is around 750 metres, which puts it within reach of most reasonably fit cyclists, including older children (at least fourteen) with some off road experience. If you’re unsure, you can bike just one section of the trail.

For safety reasons, always wear a helmet. Wear comfortable sports clothing that will keep you neither too cold nor too hot. Bring some basic tools to repair your bike in case of a breakdown, along with a bike pump and a light. We also recommend bringing a basic first aid kit. And if you are coming in summer, bring sunscreen and insect repellent too. Be sure to also bring enough water and some food.

Do I need a passport at the borders?

Italy, Slovenia and Croatia are all in the Schengen area, so there are no border checks along the route. It is still recommended to carry valid ID or passport (depending on which country you are coming from), just in case.

FAQs

How long is the Parenzana Trail?

The Parenzana Trail is about 123 kilometres long, running between Trieste in Italy and Poreč in Croatia, and passing through Slovenia in between.

Can beginners cycle the Parenzana?

The route is considered easy to moderate, with a total elevation gain of around 750 metres and mostly gentle gradients, since it follows a former railway line. Choosing a shorter section is a good option for less experienced cyclists or families.

Is the Parenzana suitable for electric bikes?

There are no charging points directly on the trail itself, but many hotels and villas along the route offer overnight charging. It is good to confirm this when you book.

How many days do I need?

Most cyclists take three to four days to enjoy the full route at a relaxed pace with time to explore the towns along the way.

Which direction should I ride?

Trieste to Poreč is the recommended direction, following the original railway route.

 

Posts created 18

Related Posts

Begin typing your search term above and press enter to search. Press ESC to cancel.